Learning how to tarp a load on a flatbed is basically a rite of passage for any driver. It's hard work, it's often dirty, and if you do it wrong, you're going to be fighting the wind for the next five hundred miles. If you've ever seen a truck on the highway with a tarp flapping like a giant sail, you know exactly what I mean—that's a "parachute," and it's a nightmare for your fuel mileage and your stress levels.
The goal here isn't just to cover the cargo. It's about protecting the freight from the elements, keeping the road grime off, and making sure everything stays exactly where it belongs. It takes some practice to get it looking neat and tight, but once you find your rhythm, you'll be able to knock it out much faster.
Get your prep work out of the way
Before you even think about throwing a tarp, you need to make sure the load is ready for it. This is where most people make their first mistake. If you just toss a heavy vinyl tarp over a load of raw lumber or machinery with sharp corners, you're going to end up with a bunch of holes. Tarps are expensive, so you want to treat them right.
Walk around your load and look for anything that might poke through. Sharp metal edges, corners of crates, or even splinters on a pallet can act like a knife once that tarp starts vibrating in the wind. Use edge protectors or even pieces of old carpet or moving blankets to cushion those spots. It might seem like an extra step that takes too long, but it's way cheaper than buying a new lumber tarp every two months.
You also want to make sure your tarps are laid out and ready. If you're using two or three tarps, figure out the order before you start lifting. Usually, you'll want to work from the back of the trailer to the front. This way, the overlapping layers face away from the wind as you drive, which prevents rain and air from getting forced underneath the seams.
Getting the tarp on the load
This is the part that really tests your patience, especially if it's a windy day. If you have access to a forklift and the operator is willing to help, use it. Have them lift the folded tarp—often called the "burrito"—and place it right in the center of the load. It saves your back and makes the whole process much smoother.
If you're doing it by hand, you're in for a workout. You'll need to climb up (safely, of course) and get that tarp centered. Once it's up there, start unrolling it along the spine of the load. The biggest tip I can give you is to keep it centered. If you start unrolling and realize one side is two feet longer than the other, you're going to have to pull it all back and start over. Check your overhang on both sides before you get too far along.
If it's windy, don't try to fight the whole tarp at once. Unroll a section, put a couple of bungees on it to hold it down, and then keep going. There's nothing more frustrating than getting a tarp perfectly laid out only to have a gust of wind blow it off the trailer like a giant kite.
The art of the fold
Once the tarp is draped over the load, you're going to have a lot of extra material at the corners. This is where you can tell the difference between a rookie and an experienced driver. You want to fold these corners neatly, almost like you're wrapping a massive gift.
For the front of the load, you want the folds to be tucked in a way that the wind hits the smooth side. For the back, you'll do the opposite. A common technique is the "hospital corner" or a "tuck and fold." Pull the fabric tight against the side of the load, fold the excess back against the rear or front face, and then pull the flap over the top.
The tighter you get these folds, the less "flap" you'll have on the road. Flapping isn't just noisy; it actually destroys the tarp. The constant whipping action wears out the fabric and the D-rings. If you see a fold that looks loose, take the thirty seconds to fix it now. It'll save you a headache later.
Using bungees and straps correctly
Now it's time to actually secure the thing. You're going to be using a lot of bungees—usually the rubber ones (EPDM) because they hold up better against the sun and weather than the fabric-covered ones.
Start by hooking into the D-rings on the tarp and pulling down to the rub rail or the specially designed tracks on your trailer. Don't just hook them anywhere. You want a consistent pull. A good rule of thumb is to pull the bungee at an angle to create tension in two directions—down and toward the center. This helps keep the tarp from shifting forward or backward.
One thing to watch out for is over-stretching your bungees. If you're pulling them to their absolute limit, they're going to snap eventually. If a D-ring is too far away, use a longer bungee or a strap. Also, keep the hooks facing away from the tarp. If the hook is pointing inward, it can rub against the vinyl and eventually wear a hole through it. It's a small detail, but it makes a huge difference in the life of your gear.
Managing the parachute effect
The "parachute" is when air gets under the front of your tarp and puffs it up like a balloon. This is the enemy of every flatbedder. It kills your fuel mileage and makes the truck feel like it's being pulled back by a giant rubber band.
To prevent this, make sure the front of your tarp is sealed tight against the deck or the bulkhead. Some guys like to use a "wind strap" or a "belly wrap." This is basically taking a standard winch strap and running it over the top of the tarped load to squish everything down. It's a great way to add an extra layer of security and keep the wind from getting a foothold.
If you're hauling something oddly shaped, like a piece of machinery with lots of gaps, the wind will find those gaps. You might need to use extra bungees in the middle of the load to pull the "belly" of the tarp tight against the cargo.
Stay safe while you're up there
We can't talk about how to tarp a load on a flatbed without mentioning safety. Tarping is one of the most dangerous parts of the job because you're often six to thirteen feet off the ground, standing on an uneven surface, and tugging on heavy material.
- Watch your step: Always be aware of where the edge of the trailer is. It's easy to get focused on a fold and forget you're inches away from a fall.
- Don't fight the wind: If the wind is gusting at 40 mph, maybe wait a bit or find a sheltered spot. It's not worth getting thrown off the trailer.
- Check your boots: If it's raining or snowing, that vinyl tarp becomes a skating rink. Take it slow and make sure you have solid footing before you pull on a bungee.
The final check
Before you hit the road, do one last walk-around. Look for any loose straps, dangling bungees, or corners that look a bit baggy. It's also a good idea to stop after about 20 or 30 miles of driving to check the load again. The wind has a way of settling the tarp, and you'll almost always find one or two bungees that have loosened up or a fold that needs a little adjustment.
Tarping isn't anyone's favorite part of the day, but there's a certain pride in pulling into a customer's lot with a load that looks sharp, tight, and professional. It shows you care about the freight and your equipment. Plus, a well-tarped load just makes for a much quieter and smoother ride down the highway. Stick with it, and eventually, you'll be able to do it in your sleep.